A selection of six classics from Smallfry Wines, intended as a journey on the palate. if they were a wine flight, you would drink them in this order:

Fools’ Gold Riesling 2024 (far left; 10.5% £27) Off-dry, light and moreish; aromas of apple blossom and stone fruit. ‘Fools’ Gold’ is the local name for mica, a tiny fleck of gold-like mineral found in the sands of Eden Valley.

Tangerine Dream 2023 (second from left; 12%; £28) Unfiltered, dry, natural skin-contact-white/orange field blend, made chiefly from Semillon and old vine Pedro Ximénez. Apricot, pink grapefruit, black pepper.

Isolar 2023 (foremost; 13.2% £29) Barrel-fermented and full-bodied blend of 60% Riesling and 40% Roussanne. Exotic notes of honeysuckle and tropical fruit

Jellyfish Grenache 2023  (14%; £29) Juicy, fruity and dangerously easy to drink. Bursting with blueberry and blackberry flavours.

Blue Gene Baby Cabernet 2022 (second from right;14.4%; £31) Full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon from a cool vintage. 10 months in oak to round the tannins. Perfect with red meat or game.

Pedro Ximénez Deluxe Fortified NV (far right; 18%; £32; 50cl btl) Special slow wine. Fortified PX aged in barrel for over a decade. Mahogany colour, notes of walnuts, almonds, honey and black tea.

Wayne Ahrens and Suzi Hilder wanted to make small batch, low intervention wine, without using systemic chemicals. So they quit their secure jobs with large wine companies and founded Smallfry Wines, initially planting a site from local seedlings in Eden Valley between 1994 and 1998.

In 2007 they bought an 18 hectare estate with old, ungrafted, biodynamic vines in Vine Vale, Barossa, which had been tended for the previous 52 harvests by Ken Schliebs, and been in Ken’s family since the 1850s.