Sam and Mandy Weaver emigrated to Marlborough, New Zealand in the 1990s. They planted vines on an undulating ridge line between the Waihopai and Omaka valleys in 1997. This was (and remains) the height of idiosyncracy in Marlborough, where most vines are planted on the fertile soils of the valley floor, allowing for full mechanisation. At Churton, most vineyard work, (and all harvesting) is done by hand, on low cut canes.

The estate comprises 50 hectares, with 22.5 of those under vine. Elsewhere on the site, sheep safely graze, bees buzz around their hives, and Red Devon cattle roam, providing a ready supply of manure to make biodynamic preparations, which are used on the vines to keep them healthy. Churton are also the first New Zealand wine producer to introduce draught horses to their vineyard, reducing diesel emissions and soil compaction.

And Sam and Mandy’s sons, Jack and Ben, have started making a new label of Churton wines, entitled ‘Natural State’, to bolster and diversify the wine range.

Viognier 2019 (15%, £27)

Extraordinary tension and structure in such a ripe wine. Aromas of lemon, russet apple, mouthwatering acidity, mineral notes and a long spicy finish.

Pinot Noir 2019 (12.5%, £28)

Serious Pinot, with intense earthy, savoury and spicy aromas. Strawberry and raspberry fruit, underscored by flavours from time in oak – vanilla, cloves and toast.

Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (13.5%, £18.50)

Intensely aromatic and full flavoured. Bold passionfruit and citrus, hints of capsicum and gooseberry.

Natural State Field Blend 2021 (13.5%, £22)

Opulently ripe tropical fruit aromas to this just off-dry co-fermentation of Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier and Petit Manseng. Guava, Canteloupe Melon and lime. Ideal with spicy food – think chilli or coconut milk.

Natural State Pied de Cuve 2020 (13%, £22)

Another Sauvignon, but a very different style, with the fermentation beginning in the vineyard, using natural ambient yeasts. Richer, softer and rounder, with pronounced mango and honeysuckle character.

Natural State Pinot Noir 2020 (13%, £22)

A fruit-driven, easy-drinking and unoaked expression of Pinot. Bright raspberry and cherry fruit, impressive persistence on the palate.

Petit Manseng 2017 (13%, 50cl, £33)

An unforgettable end to a meal. Made by allowing grapes to dry slightly on the vine before harvesting, concentrating their sugars. More incredible aromatics… apricot, honey, toasted almonds and crème brûlée. No wonder the great Andrew Jefford called it the best sweet wine to come out of the Southern Hemisphere.