2012 may seem a distant memory, but nothing is rushed at Fattoria di Sammontana, near the town of Empoli, between Florence and Pisa, in Tuscany. The Fattoria’s barrel room is underneath a 12th century convent, where monks would go to rest and retire; and here, their Vin Santo spends four years fermenting and resting in small, traditional 50 litre ‘caratelli’ wooden barrels, before further bottle ageing.