In 2020, after 15 years in the mainstream Portuguese wine industry, André decided to stop making ‘Coca-Cola wines’ for other people. He chose instead to make his own small batch natural wines, from old vineyards planted with low-yielding, indigenous grape varieties.

This is a live issue in Portugal right now. Much of the country’s viticulture is modernising, and these old vineyards are being dug up, and replaced with higher yielding international varieties.

If, like us, you’re more excited to try a Moscatel Graúdo or a Castelão than a Portuguese Chardonnay or Syrah, you’ll be pleased to know that we have imported a small quantity of André’s wines, from his base in Beira Baixa, central Portugal, and are introducing them to the UK market.

We are fortunate souls indeed – we get to taste a lot of wine, much of it natural. Still, we found André’s ‘First Drops’ (Primeiras Gotas) particularly arresting, distinctive and original, with a character as exuberant as our tasting notes.

Vinho Branco – Skin Contact Curtimenta 2021

Fiercely aromatic, juicy and refreshing white, with impressive persistence on the palate. Fruit driven, but with a classy salinity and a hint of spice. Preserved lemon, blood orange, peach, toasted pine nuts (11.5% abv, £26)

Vinho Rosé – Castelão 2021

More light red in appearance, though with the clean freshness of a rosé. André feels that Beira Baixa has the potential to make wines that are delicate but powerful – like this. A beguiling wine with impressive length. Hibiscus, rosewater, watermelon, umeboshi plum (12.5%, £26)

Vinho Tinto – Corricão 2021
With its pale red colour, negligible tannin, bright red fruit character and meaty undertone, this put us in mind of a Pinot Noir. Minimal sulphites makes for a slightly reductive character, and André recommends giving this one a little time to breathe. Wild strawberry, cranberry, rosemary, black olive (13%, £27)

Vinho Tinto – Field Mix 2020

A blend of over 20 different varieties from a mixed planted vineyard, co-fermented to give an expression of the site. Deeper in colour, with an improbable array of aromas. Though a dry wine, the pure and joyful character of the fruit put us in mind of pudding… jam roly poly or Christmas cake. Raspberry, black cherry, liquorice, malt loaf (13%, £27)