We may associate Barossa Valley, Australia with full bodied, oak aged red wines.

This selection challenges that pre-conception, and highlights six innovative and diverse wines available from three small independent producers in the region. These wines are exclusive to Substrata in the UK.

Smallfry, ‘Eckletik Violet’ 2021: A blend of older plantings of Grenache with newer plantings of drought-resistant Cinsault, a variety more commonly seen in the Languedoc, and in France sometimes called ‘the Pinot Noir of the south’. Gorgeously pale, light and drinkable. Strawberry, cherry and raspberry fruit; a hint of almond and a touch of earthiness (12% abv.)

Smallfry, ‘Jellyfish’ 2021: Old bush Vine Grenache, which Smallfry harvest early to keep the wine lighter and fresher. This feels incredibly light and juicy. Pure blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, with a prickling lift from some carbon dioxide added at bottling, this is a little bit of bottled joy. (14%)

Smallfry, Barossa Riesling 2017: A refreshing counterpoint to all the rich reds of the region – some residual sweetness balancing the high acidity, and a mere 9.5% alcohol. Opulently aromatic, with citrus, stone fruit and floral notes, and a hint of kerosene as the Riesling develops. Brilliant with spicy foods especially Thai, and fun with smoked cheeses.

Izway, ‘Bruce’ Shiraz 2018: Now sold out in Australia, this is a deeper and complex Shiraz, blending the weight and power of Barossa with the freshness of Eden Valley. Dark fruit, herbal notes, integrated oak and some chocolatey notes. This is one for the cellar; drink 2025-2030; or decant if you can’t wait. (14% – not organic)

Hayes, Semillon 2020: Skilfully made textured white, with generous body but a tight structure, making it a good candidate for the cellar. Part matured in oak to add a little richness to the fresh lemon, apricot and almond notes. (12% – not organic)

Hayes, Barossa Rouge 2019: Enticingly drinkable low intervention co-fermentation of Shiraz, Mataro and Grenache, fermented in a ceramic egg. Deep ruby in colour, with enticing aromas of black cherry, blackberry and black olive; the palate reveals black pepper and dark chocolate. (14% – not organic)